Rogan painting | Ashish Kansara

Master of heritage Rogan painting | Ashish Kansara

Introduction :

Rogan Art painting, on the other hand, is a centuries-old textile art from Gujarat, created using a unique mixture of oil and natural pigments.

Word

Rogan, derived from the Sanskrit words "Rang-Kaam," refers to the art of intricate and skillful painting. Rogan art involves creating detailed designs on inexpensive textiles using a thick paste made from oil and natural colors.

Rogan art, a 1550-year-old Indian textile tradition, is practiced by the Kshatriya community in Gujarat. This ancient art form arrived in Kutch through the travels of Buddha's disciples from Bihar. Ashish Shantilal Kansara and his family have preserved and practiced this intricate art for generations, keeping its heritage alive.

Process

The process of making a Rogan painting is a time-consuming and meticulous process that demands exceptional skill, patience, and dedication. Each piece reflects the artist's precision and commitment to preserving this traditional art form.

Oil painting on fabric

Rogan is a traditional painting technique that uses oil-based colors to create intricate designs on cotton and silk fabrics.

Preparation

The technique begins with the preparation of Rogan paint, made from oil and natural vegetable dyes.

Castor, a local crop grown in the Kutch region, is sourced by Rogan artists from local farmers. The castor seeds are hand-pounded to extract the oil, which is then boiled and transformed into a thick paste for use in the painting process.

The oil is heated over a fire and continuously stirred for more than eight hours in a large cauldron, a process that can take an entire day. Once it turns into a sticky paste, it is cast into cold water, producing a thick residue—a slimy, gummy, golden-brown substance known as Rogan.

Colours

The preparation of colors is also a time-consuming process, as this art form exclusively uses organic colors. The dyes and pigments are mostly derived from natural resources, which are then crushed with stones into a fine powder for use in the painting.

To produce a specific color, the mixture of oil (Rogan) is blended with stone dyes, chalk, colored pigments, and a binding agent. The resulting pastes of different colors are then stored in earthen pots with water to prevent them from drying out.

Rogan painting has a color palette consisting of five natural colors: blue, white, green, orange, and yellow. Artists can create new shades by mixing two or three of these primary colors, depending on the design.

Use of Palm and Rod (Tulika)

Hands are an essential tool in creating Rogan art, along with a stylus or iron rod, which is used to craft both complex and simple images on the cloth.

Twirling

The colors are mixed thoroughly with Rogan until they reach a thread-like consistency. The fabric is then laid out in front of the craftsman, who takes some of the color paint on the edge of the palm and begins twirling it with the help of a rod or stick, creating intricate designs on the fabric.

At room temperature, the paint is carefully twisted into motifs and images using a metal rod, which never touches the fabric. The craftsman delicately draws fine threads with precision, creating intricate designs on the cloth.

The act of twirling is an essential part of the painting process, as it gives the paint the necessary texture. The heat from the palm loosens the thick paint just enough for the artist to form a fine thread, allowing for the creation of intricate patterns.

Artists place a small amount of the paint paste into their palm, and with skilled hands, they manipulate the strand of color in the air to create the intended motifs before it touches the fabric. The fingers underneath the fabric help shape the final form, ensuring the design takes its precise shape.

Iron rod /Tulika

Unlike most forms of painting where brushes are used, Rogan artists use a stylus (made of metal or wood) or a metal block to apply the oil-based paint, allowing for the creation of intricate and detailed designs.

With the help of a metal stylus, a lump of paint is taken and rubbed vigorously on the palm until the paste loosens up. A trail, resembling a wire, is then pulled out using the support of a finger, allowing the artist to begin creating intricate designs.

The iron rod or wooden stick, usually about 12 inches tall and flat at both ends, is dipped by the artist to paint half of the design with the support of their fingers. At room temperature, the paint is carefully twisted into motifs and images using the metal rod, which never comes in direct contact with the fabric.

Uniqueness of the Craft

Freehand painting

There are no drawings, sketches, or designs to refer to in Rogan art. It is a freehand painting that relies entirely on the artist’s vision and creativity. Each piece is a product of the artist’s imagination, skillfully brought to life on the textile.

Rogan art is created with complete concentration, with artisans sitting on the floor without the use of a table or frame, and without any outlines to guide the process. After the initial design is applied to the fabric, it is left to dry in the sun for two hours. Once dry, intricate details are carefully added to complete the artwork.

Rogan artists traditionally prefer to work on dark-colored fabrics like black, deep red, and blue, as these backgrounds accentuate the vibrant colors of their paintings, allowing the bright hues to stand out vividly.

Mirror Image

Once the artist has completed half of the design, they fold the fabric in half to create a mirror image on the other side. This unique folding technique ensures perfect symmetry in the design, maintaining balance and harmony in the artwork.

This one-of-a-kind painting technique helps create picture-perfect symmetry with two-dimensional art in Rogan paintings, further enhancing the beauty and intricate appeal of this traditional craft.

Seasonal work

Traditionally, Rogan art has been used to embellish bridal trousseaus, including bridal clothing, as well as saree and patterns on ghagra, chablas, dharajos, and odhnis. As part of dowry products like bed sheets, pillow covers, and quilts, this seasonal art formed an intrinsic part of people’s lives, carrying cultural significance and personal value.

Substitute for embroidery

Rogan painting on cloth gives the impression of embroidery, as the effect is generated through the surface application of paste, which has an embossed and shiny appearance similar to embroidery. The process of duplicating the design freehand further resembles the intricate and detailed nature of embroidery.

Motifs and Patterns

Rogan art reflects the rich tradition of the region through its designs, motifs, and patterns, which serve as visual representations of the living environment and stories of the people of Gujarat. Each piece encapsulates the culture, heritage, and daily life of the region, bringing its history and values to life.

The fabrics in Rogan art are not just designs; they tell stories and reflect the artist's creativity and deep connection to their heritage. The painting process is not easy; it can take days, weeks, or even months to complete, depending on the complexity and intricate details of the design.

The intricate patterns in Rogan art often feature the flora and fauna of the region. Common motifs include flowers, peacocks, folk-inspired geometric patterns, and artwork that showcases the deep connection between nature and culture. These designs reflect the natural beauty and cultural heritage of Gujarat.

Tree of Life

Patterns like the Tree of Life (Kalpvriksha, Bodhi tree) have become extremely popular motifs in Rogan art. The Tree of Life design is not only admired for its symbolism but is also one of the most challenging and intricate designs to create, requiring great skill and precision from the artist.

Surviving the Storm

Revival of Rogan Art

History has witnessed the rise and fall of empires, people, civilizations, and, indeed, arts and heritage. The art of Rogan painting saw a decline during the 21st century due to various factors, including the availability of cheap, man-made fabrics that were more accessible and affordable compared to the lacquer-painted textiles, which were relatively more expensive. This shift led many artists to abandon their traditional craft and turn to other professions for survival.

Kansara family of Madhapar village

Rogan art, or Rogani kaam as it is known locally, is an ancient skill and unique handicraft that originally arrived in Gujarat from Patliputra (Bihar) over 1550 years ago. It spread across Gujarat, Rajasthan, Madhya Pradesh, and Uttar Pradesh, where it was practiced. However, over the centuries, it has faded away, and today, Madhapar, a small village in the Kutch region of India, is the place where this art still persists.

The village of Madhapar is situated 4 km from Bhuj and is known for its rich cultural heritage, featuring several distinct crafts such as hand embroidery, lippan work, and Rogan work. These crafts are a testament to the traditional artistry and skills passed down through generations in the region.

Madhapar village is where the ancient textile art of Rogan painting has been preserved by the Kansara family.

In the 1990s, when industrial textiles began to prevail over handmade art, Rogan art was on the brink of extinction. During this challenging time, Mr. Ashish Shantilal Kansara stood against the odds to save the dying handicraft. By bringing it in sync with the changing times, he made Rogan art popular once again. Today, he, along with his family, has played a crucial role in keeping the art form alive and ensuring its continued popularity.

Ashish Shantilal Kansara

Mr. Ashish Shantilal Kansara is a master craftsman of Rogan art painting who has been instrumental in preserving this ancient craft, preventing it from becoming extinct and sustaining it as a valuable cultural asset of Indian handicrafts. His family is the only one still practicing this little-known textile craft, carrying on the legacy of their forefathers. The Kansara family of Madhapar (Kutch) represents generations of Rogan painters, maintaining the rich tradition of this unique art form.

As custodians of this ancient handicraft, the Kansara family takes great pride in their legacy. The family has produced six award winners, each contributing to the preservation and recognition of Rogan art. Their dedication and skill have helped keep this unique art form alive for generations.

Teaching women

In 2016, the Kansara family began teaching the art of Rogan painting to women in their village, opening up a craft that was traditionally passed down only through men. Thanks to their efforts, around 300 women in the areas surrounding Madhapar and Bhuj district now practice Rogan art. The family also regularly participates in conferences, exhibitions, and workshops, helping to raise awareness and appreciation for this ancient textile art form.

Made in India

Ashish Kansara ji shared that their workshop in Madhapar is the only place in India that still uses traditional methods to create Rogan art, and they operate offline, preserving the authentic techniques of this craft.

Varnika Rogan print

Rogan, when dusted with metallic powder, is known as Varnika Rogan Chhap. After a cloth is painted or block printed, it is left to dry in the shade. Once dry, the fabric is gradually moistened with water until the Rogan softens, and then gold or silver powder is sprinkled on. This technique was once practiced in several cities across Rajasthan, Gujarat, and centers in Chennai (Tamil Nadu) and Hyderabad. According to Mr. Ashish Kansara, Hyderabad was once the capital of Rogan Varnika work, but sadly, the art has now vanished.

Into the Limelight

Rogan art was beautifully showcased when Ashish Kansara created the Shree Raja Ram Darbar in Rogan art. This intricate piece highlighted the unique and rich tradition of the craft, bringing the artistry to life through its detailed and vibrant design. The work is a testament to Ashish Kansara's dedication to preserving and promoting Rogan art.

Rogan art now

Digital platforms and online markets have played a significant role in raising awareness and promoting the ancient craft of Rogan painting. These platforms have allowed the art form to reach a global audience, making it accessible to those who may not have otherwise encountered it. The online presence has helped in preserving and reviving interest in Rogan art, showcasing its unique beauty and cultural significance to the world.

CRAFTCENTRES and ROGANART, through their e-commerce website, introduced a DIY educational art kit designed for children who are eager to learn and experience the nuances of Rogan painting from the comfort of their homes. This kit is easily available on online platforms.

Moreover, the increase in tourism after the 2001 Gujarat earthquake, along with support from local groups, significantly impacted the revival of Rogan painting, especially after COVID-19. During this time, Rogan artisans turned to online platforms to sustain their craft.

Today, Rogan art has found its way into various modern lifestyle items, including bedspreads, kurtas, curtains, tablecloths, table runners, wall hangings, folders, purses, dress materials, dupattas, saris, scarves, and stoles. These items are now easily accessible to the public, both in India and abroad, through online platforms, exhibitions, emporiums, and crafts melas.

Conclusion

Rogan art is a beautiful blend of tradition, skill, and culture, seamlessly adapting itself into the realms of urban lifestyles while bridging the gap between tradition and modernity. It represents the rich cultural heritage of India, which has gained recognition and popularity abroad.

There is hope for the future, a flicker of optimism that Rogan art will continue to be accepted and recognized by future generations, preserving its legacy and timeless beauty.